Llanddwyn Island – Lovers and Biscuits

The ground under my boots turns to a firm gravel-based path as we hit the base of the island and my legs are happy to have a relief from the work it takes to walk across the deep sand of the beach. You can get to Llanddwyn Island by walking through the forest as well, but today the tide is out and the beach walk will be shorter. Anyone who walks long distances with a child knows there is a point where you are working on borrowed time and our goal is to get out to the island before we start to hear any complaining.  

 At the start of the path, an information board will tell you the basics of the story of Saint Dwynwen who once lived here in the 5th century, but this beautiful spur of land that juts out into the water that splits Newborough Beach from Bae Maltraeth is anything but the old haunt of a crusty old saint.  

Dwynwen is the patron saint of lovers and it’s her rather than St. Valentine the Welsh turn to for help with matters of the heart.  

As with most stories of the nature of saints, there are many versions of the events that befell Dwynwen and her prince Maelon. All agree that they loved each other and that Dwynwen wanted to remain unmarried, though why exactly varies.  At the end of the drama though, she was granted three wishes, one of which was that God would allow her to spend her life helping other lovers to find happiness. Her other two wishes were to be free of Maelon (who had been turned to a block of ice by this point so probably not much fun to be around anyhow) and to remain unmarried.  

In the centre of this small, part time island off the coast of Anglesey, she built her cell. Near it lies her mythical well where a sacred fish will predict if your relationship will last. The remains of the church that still stand on the island are from the 16th century. Though Dwynwen herself died in the 5th century, her popularity lived on and forecasting the romantic future of pilgrims continued to be a profitable venture for nearly another millennium.  

Marram grass sweeps the sides of the path that trundles down the centre of the island, and the sound of waves crashing against the rocks that make up the foundation of the island is ever present. There is a peace on Ynys Llanddwyn that seems as ancient as the spirit of the saint who guards it.   It’s a quiet place that feels incredibly isolate, but that’s true of much of Anglesey and one of the reasons I love it.   

The little one is happy now that we’re reached a place more interesting to him. With the tide out the beach is little more than a wide and flat expanse of sand. The weather has been calm recently and the beach is almost featureless today without even tidepools in which to have a poke about. We’ve gathered a few shells, but now with buildings in sight, he is eager to explore the remains of the medieval church and the lighthouse further on which he says reminds him of Sauron’s Tower. This makes me proud and worried in equal parts.  

We’ve always been a book-ish family. Before the coming of tablets and e-readers, packing for any holiday would include a bag of books. The one I was reading, and another to follow it. But then what if I changed my mind about what I wanted to read next? Or if that book was really good and I finished it quickly? With the same again for my husband, well, thank goodness the baggage allowance was more generous in those days. With an e-reader I can now have hundreds of books at a time on one device which has made life much easier, and spoiled it a bit. There is a stress that comes from having too much choice, and modern life seems full of it.  

Through the ruined tracery of the church window I can see the mountains of Snowdonia in the distance. It’s much the same view that would Dwynwen herself would have had as she walked these shores ruminating about her lost love. She was the daughter of a king yet gave it all up to settle here on this tiny island and devote her life to helping others. I slip my hand into my husband’s and give it a gentle squeeze before resting my head on his arm. It’s not long before the tiny one wedges himself in between us to be cuddled. For a moment we all just stand there as a family, listening to the wind through the marram grass and the mournful cries of the gulls overheard. Happiness really does lie in stripping away all the clutter and chaos. What I have here… a healthy family, a bit of food for a packed lunch, a warm coat and sturdy boots…these are things too often taken for granted.  

Drawing a handful of seashells from my pocket I arrange on the remains of the windowsill two of the larger ones and one smaller nestled between them. I know Dwynwen is watching over us later as we leave the serenity of the island and head back down the beach again toward our car and the bustle modern life.