At the end of the holidays…from Wales home again
No matter how nice it would be sometimes, every holiday has to end, and time does not stand still.
My father-in-law will tell anyone who will listen about how long the drive to Anglesey used to be from their home near Chester, about how he used to wedge the barrel of homebrewed beer in the back seat between the two children and their book and drive down the old A5 toward Llangollen before turning north again and driving through the mountains.
These days the improvements to the A55 coast road mean we can be on the island in just over an hour. While originally intended to improve lorry traffic from the ferry port in Holyhead and thus easing the flow of goods between Ireland and the continent, the road has brought deeper changes to the island.
Commuting to Chester or Manchester is now feasible so elegant executive homes are being squeezed in among older neighbourhoods. Built tall to have a view of any sort of the surrounding water, they command a steep price, but still considerably less than if they stood on English soil. Improvements to infrastructure such as mobile and superfast broadband, along with a cultural shift to recognize remote working as acceptable has meant an influx of newcomers to the island.
Anglesey, like many other places across Wales, has begun to go upmarket.
In 2016 Wales had 2 Michelin starred restaurants. In 2017 alone they added 5 more. Pubs are becoming gastro pubs serving exciting new dishes showcasing Welsh produce, or at least putting their own twist on traditional ones. Galleries and artisan boutiques full of hand-crafted products are flourishing. Welsh made products are beginning to get international attention like never before.
The Anglesey sea salt harvested at Halen Môn from the Menai Strait in Brynsiencyn is frequently touted by chefs and luxury cooking and travel publications at the best salt in the world. The triple gold medal winning whiskey produced by Penderyn is now regularly outclassing what the Scottish can produce at major international competitions. The Welsh have always been proud of what they produce, and rightfully so. It’s wonderful to see so many of these products and the craftsmen and artists who produce them finally getting such recognition.
It was a worrying time when the A55 was under construction. Our path around the island would take us on the old roads that criss-crossed over and over again the path the new highway would take. It was a growing concern that this new road would rip the heart of the island out as it funnelled hurried travellers back and forth from Ireland to England, that soon the island would be awash in fast food chains and brightly lit motorway service stations. Instead, just as with those castles that Edward built centuries ago, the Welsh have taken this and turned it to their advantage. The island appears to be prospering, the changes a useful enhancement.
There is a Waitrose now in Menai Bridge where a slightly shabby Co-op used to be, and the car park is heaving. It’s a convenient place to stop and get milk and bread when you reach the island, if you can get a parking space. We prefer to use the local farm shop for food as much as we can, but this is as good a place as any to stop and buy loo rolls on the way home.
It’s always a sad moment when we drive over the bridge after a stay on the island. It feels as if we leave another part of our heart on the island each time. I’m certain that eventually there will come a day when we will come to stay, and I look forward to it.
AuthorCJ TothDifficultyIntermediateMore and more I’m starting to prefer lamb to beef. It seems to stay more tender and certainly it’s easier here to find a less expensive cut that is still gorgeous. This is one of my favourites. I’ve used both shoulder and rolled breast successfully with this same mixture for a rub. A large glass to deglaze the roasting tin is all you need for a beautiful sauce. If you were served this in a restaurant, you’d be sending compliments to the chef. Definitely impressive dinner party stuff, but why on earth save it only for guests?!
Preheat the oven to 170°C.
With a mortar and pestle (or a solid small mixing bowl and something solid like the end of a wooden rolling pin or heavy spoon) crush together the rosemary, mustard seeds, garlic granules, celery salt, and thyme.
If the lamb shoulder has come tied, cut the strings and lay it out flat. Rub the seasoning mixture into every nook and cranny. Re-roll the lamb and tie with butcher’s twine to hold it together.
Drizzle olive oil generously over the top to ensure the joint is nicely coated then roast for approximately 75 minutes. Check with a meat thermometer after 60 minutes to judge when the meat is done to your likely.
A glass of red wine or stock into the pan juices will make a lovely sauce. Serve with crispy roast potatoes and bitter greens like steamed and buttered winter kale. Remember to remove all bits of the twine before serving!
Ingredients
Directions
Preheat the oven to 170°C.
With a mortar and pestle (or a solid small mixing bowl and something solid like the end of a wooden rolling pin or heavy spoon) crush together the rosemary, mustard seeds, garlic granules, celery salt, and thyme.
If the lamb shoulder has come tied, cut the strings and lay it out flat. Rub the seasoning mixture into every nook and cranny. Re-roll the lamb and tie with butcher’s twine to hold it together.
Drizzle olive oil generously over the top to ensure the joint is nicely coated then roast for approximately 75 minutes. Check with a meat thermometer after 60 minutes to judge when the meat is done to your likely.
A glass of red wine or stock into the pan juices will make a lovely sauce. Serve with crispy roast potatoes and bitter greens like steamed and buttered winter kale. Remember to remove all bits of the twine before serving!